Think of Peru and you instantly think of the Machu Pichu ruins. While this marvel of Inca architecture is indeed spectacular, Peru has a lot more to offer that piles of old stones. From the world’s deepest canyon to naked dogs, via Amazon River trips and roast guinea pig, Peru has something for everyone.
Most tourists arrive in Peru and head straight for Cuzco in order to visit Machu Pichu and the Sacred Valley of the Incas. Machu Pichu itself is as spectacular as its reputation would lead you to expect, and as crowded. To get to the ruins you have to travel to the base camp village of Aguas Calientes by expensive train (get a bus to Ollantaytambo first to cut down the cost). Aguas Calientes itself only exists to feed and water travelers and tourists on their way into and out of Machu Pichu. It has a reputation for being expensive and just downright horrible but this isn’t fair. The further up the hill away from the train tracks you get the better value it becomes and we had some perfectly decent food in the restaurants close to the hot pools (and some unspeakable ones by the train station).
While Machu Pichu dominates, the rest of the Sacred Valley is also well worth spending a couple of days in. It is perfectly possible to hike around between the different towns and ruins (despite what taxi drivers say about guerillas). The ruins at Pisac would be world famous if they weren’t overshadowed by Machu Pichu and the spherical terraces at Moray are fascinating. Pisac town has a decent, if touristy, market and pretty Ollantaytambo town has a set of ruins worth a visit.
Cuzco itself is a pretty colonial town with a mixture of Spanish architecture and Inca ruins. The Saqsaywaman (known as Sexywoman)ruins are famous for their enormous, geometric stone blocks and some of the buildings in the town centre are built on Inca foundations (look out for the famous 12-sided stone). Cuzco sees so many tourists and travelers that it has a great selection of bars and restaurants and some top notch hostels. It is easy to get to Bolivia from Cuzco provided they roads aren't blocked by protests.
It is a great shame that northern Peru falls under the radar of most people visiting the country. The walled ruins of Kuelap close to Chachapoyas town are world class and the whole Chachapoyas area boasts fabulous scenery and fascinating glimpses of the myserious Chachapoyas culture. The area also boasts spectacular valleys and the third highest waterfall in the world. The Gocta Waterfall has only recently become known as the locals believed it was protected by a water nymph and kept its location a secret. Its a great area for hiking and very friendly.
Also in the North are the adobe ruins of Chan Chan, the remains of what was once the largest city in South America. The actual ruins are not much to look at but the reconstructed parts are impressive and the nearby Pyramids of the Sun and Moon are genuinely impressive. Look out for the naked Peruvian dogs; a local breed with no hair and goofy teeth that is so ugly it is endearing.
Iquitos, set in the middle of the Amazon, is the largest city in the world with no road link to the outside world. A good option is to travel in by riverboat and then fly out. The boat trip from Yurimaguas takes two to three days and provides a fascinating glimpse of life on the world’s largest river. For the trip, you will need a hammock, drinking water and snacks. To arrange passage, simply head down to the boat dock in Yurimaguas and ask to speak to the ferry captain. Expect to see river dolphins, tiny villages, flocks of parrots and even the odd cayman!
The famous Nazca lines are also worth visiting, but be warned that the lines are only really worth seeing if you go up in one of the small planes that offer tours. These are bumpy and most of the pilots insane!
A trip to Peru should also include a day or two spent around Lake Titicaca and its floating islands. The area has become touristy and you might consider seeing the Lake from Copacabana on the much quieter Bolivian side. Don't believe any boat captain who says he can whizz you between Bolivia and Peru without any visa hassles, even for a day trip. If the police find you, your captain will vanish and leave you to pay the fine.
Peruvian cuisine is gaining a global reputation. Be sure to try the Ceviche (raw seafood marinated in lemon juice) and perhaps even a roasted guinea pig. There are a lot of Chinese restaurants in Peru (called Chifas) and these are a reliable source of cheap eats.
Peru is a fascinating a friendly country to visit. Machu Pichu is its premier attraction for good reasons but does tend to overshadow the immense range of other things to do. Be sure to read up well on Peru before you visit it. A trip away from the tourist areas is likely to be just as rewarding as that first glimpse of Machu Pichu emerging out of the clouds.
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